Book Description
INTRODUCTION Though much less visited than neighbouring Thailand, Vietnam or Laos, Cambodia is fast establishing itself on the Southeast Asian tourist trail. The stunning temples of Angkor are the obvious draw for most visitors, but the country has much else to offer: a smattering of golden undeveloped beaches, unspoilt forests, a balmy climate, and a relaxed atmosphere that’s refreshingly low on hassle. For a small country, Cambodia encompasses a surprisingly diverse range of terrain and scenery. Rice fields are the most quintessential feature of this predominantly agricultural land, with the country’s rice bowl in the northwest. The annual monsoon brings rains that not only feed rice production, but also replenish the Tonle Sap lake, a massive body of fresh water that dominates the heart of the country; east of here, the mighty Mekong River forms a natural divide between an arid, sparsely populated sector of land to the west, and the mountainous, heavily forested far northeast. The southwest is likewise hilly and remains covered in jungle, while parts of the southeast are regularly inundated as the Mekong and its sister river, the Bassac, spill their banks. For all its natural beauty and rich heritage, Cambodia has suffered a tragic recent past at the hands of the fanatical Khmer Rouge movement; the population had to endure first genocide, when the Khmer Rouge were in power in the 1970s, then a protracted guerrilla war which only ended in 1998. The whole of the country is now finally at peace, though the lack of infrastructure and skills is sorely evident, in the potholed streets, the damaged buildings and the sometimes truly appalling roads. With much to be done before the country is properly back on its feet, Cambodia remains heavily reliant on international aid, and it’ll be a while yet before most of the population see a tangible improvement in their standard of living. There are positive signs, though: thronging markets are testimony to renewed private enterprise, and in Phnom Penh at least, a modest middle class has re-emerged. This recovery is in no small way down to one of the country’s greatest assets, the Cambodians themselves, eternally optimistic, tenacious and, to visitors, endlessly welcoming. Despite the dereliction of the Khmer Rouge years, visitors need not in any way feel like they’re venturing into a war zone. The country offers a decent range of places to stay, and Cambodian food, influenced by the cuisines of both China and Thailand, surprises the uninitiated with its depth and piquancy. Cambodian crafts make for intriguing mementoes, and the appearance of numerous craft shops is evidence of the revival in traditional artisanship. The majority of the country’s towns still retain some old-world charm, and the gentility of the former French times can still be glimpsed in the quaint shophouse terraces and colonial architecture – though the most tangible legacy of French rule is the piles of crusty baguettes heaped up in baskets and hawked around the streets in the early morning.

Excerpted from The Rough Guide Cambodia (Rough Guides) by Rough Guides. Copyright © 2002. Reprinted by permission. All rights reserved.
WHERE TO GO The alluring Angkor Wat is the highlight of any trip to Cambodia, but there are many more temples to be discovered, both around Siem Reap, the engaging town closest to the Angkor Heritage Park, and scattered through the country. At Angkor itself, the compact Banteay Srei, with its enchanting reliefs of demure divinities, the other-worldly Ta Prohm, clamped in the grip of giant trees, and the overwhelmingly complex Bayon all vie for your attention. Would-be explorers will be entranced upon reaching Banteay Chmar, an expansive temple in the northwest near the Thai border, and will relish the expedition needed to visit Preah Vihear, clinging dramatically to an escarpment right on the Thai border in the far north. Most tourists make for the cosmopolitan Phnom Penh at some time during their visit to Cambodia. A pleasing, low-rise city graced with leafy boulevards, the capital offers the chance to take in the extravagant splendour of the Royal Palace, and the unique array of silver tiles at the appropriately named Silver Pagoda next door, while the cream of ancient Khmer art is housed a stone’s throw away at the National Museum. The capital also boasts a vibrant riverside where cafés and bars cluster, and is the best place in the country to shop – you’ll soon find yourself tempted by shimmering silks and intricate handicrafts in its colourful markets. Lazing on pristine white-sand beaches lapped by the waters of the Gulf of Thailand is the order of the day at Sihanoukville, where you can easily escape the crowds even on busy weekends or, for your own tropical-island experience, take an overnight camping excursion offshore. Just out of Sihanoukville, you can putter downriver at Ream National Park while monkeys play in the mangroves and fishing eagles soar overhead. East of Sihanoukville, and connected to it by the most scenic train journey in Cambodia, on which you’re sandwiched between the sea and the hills, Kampot is a delightful town with mixed French and Chinese influences. It’s also the base for a visit to Bokor National Park, a popular destination for its ghostly, deserted hill station, and for its jungle-clad slopes, home to some rare species of flora and fauna; huge pitcher plants hang from scrub in the mossy bogs, while occasional giant hornbills cruise above the treetops. Another simple side trip from Kampot brings you to the tiny seaside resort of Kep, smacking of faded gentility; with a minuscule beach at which to picnic and frolic, it’s a popular day-trip from Phnom Penh. Inland from here, the dusty town of Takeo is the base for reaching Angkor Borei, the capital of Cambodia in the third century; for much of the year it’s only accessible by water, as is the nearby sixth-century hilltop ruin of Phnom Da. Northeast of the capital, and readily reachable by the daily express boat, the Irrawaddy dolphins of the Mekong are the lure at Kratie, their graceful undulations through the rapids intriguing to watch. Getting right out to the northeastern provincial capitals of Banlung and Sen Monorom takes a little more time and effort, but the natural beauty of this part of the country is unrivalled in Cambodia, the jungled hillsides brimming with wildlife, peppered with scenic waterfalls and home to villages of the minority chunchiet tribes. The northwestern border crossing from Thailand at Poipet is an increasingly popular point of entry to Cambodia, and nearby Battambang, retaining some of the country’s most attractive colonial architecture, makes a convenient stopover on the way to Phnom Penh or an interesting side trip from Siem Reap. WHEN TO GO A tropical country, Cambodia is pretty warm year round, though there are three distinct seasons. Unsurprisingly, the cool season, from November through to February, is the peak time for tourism, when it’s cool enough to clamber over the temples in comfort and yet warm enough to sunbathe by the coast. Temperatures then are typically in the mid- to upper-20s Celsius, but occasional cold snaps can bring them below 20'C, which feels decidedly chilly in a country where everything is designed to keep you cool. Following on, the hot season typically runs from March until May, when the humidity and temperatures soar, with Phnom Penh and Battambang seeing peak daytime temperatures of 33–35'C on average. At this time, it’s best to do as the locals do, rising early to get out and about, returning for a snooze at midday and emerging again late in the afternoon. This is also when the dust thrown up from the country’s dirt roads is at its worst, the billowing clouds ensuring that everything and everyone is coated in a fine film of grit. At Angkor the unrelenting sun, allied to the lack of any breeze, makes for a baking visit, though this is an excellent time to hit the coast. The rainy season lasts roughly from June to October, as the southwest monsoon coming off the Gulf of Thailand deposits rain on the whole of the country. River levels are very high a couple of months in, and in September and October communications are at their most difficult, with dirt roads reduced to a deep slurry and a risk of flooding in provincial areas. Thankfully, the rains aren’t unrelenting and fall mainly in the afternoon, so if you don’t want to get off the beaten track, this isn’t a bad time to visit: it’s the quietest time for tourism (at Angkor you’ll have the temples pretty much to yourself), and you’ll be able to concentrate your travels in the mornings. Naturally, this is also when the countryside is at its lushest, and the rice fields are verdant with new growth.